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07/03/25

Arkengarthdale and Beyond

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Tan Hill, the highest pub in Great Britain

On another stunningly beautiful day we decided to explore Arkengarthdale a little more, a dale we used to frequent many years ago visiting the CB Inn, probably on a Saturday night to join in with the frivolities! Arkengarthdale is the most northerly of the Yorkshire Dales.

We travelled from Reeth having come over from Wensleydale via Redmire, dropping down into Swaledale to reach Grinton and a couple of miles further along the B6270 to reach Reeth. Leave the green and the B6270 to follow the sign for Langthwaite and Barnard Castle more or less north to follow Regional Route 71. Lunch again at the CB Inn, excellent as before, and we set off to continue on the Regional Route 71 heading for Tan Hill, eight miles according to the sign, not far. But what a journey, the views were just totally amazing, the expanse of moor is so surprising and it is definitely moorland, how easy it would be to get lost whilst walking if you lost your bearings or the weather changed. A reminder to always go prepared. Soon we could even see the traffic going along the A66 which was miles away.

After much pausing and gazing Tan Hill came into view and, gosh, it is so totally, totally isolated, no wonder they have their own snow plough etc etc, not a telegraph pole in sight. I’m sure you know, Tan Hill is the highest pub in Great Britain at 1,732 feet above sea level and also sure that people watch the weather forecast for snow, book in just to get snowed in. The landlord and landlady are proud to be prepared for this eventuality getting well stocked up with food and drink!

We didn’t stop, promised for another day, but turned left for Keld and Thwaite. Continue on here and gradually we descend into Swaledale, passing through tiny hamlets, West Stonedale, Keld, Angram, on the way. All most interesting with evidence of past mine workings on the hill sides. Once through West Stonedale turn at the next junction for Keld and Reeth, back again onto the B6270. Through Thwaite, excellent tea shop here, the Kearton Guest House if you wish pause awhile, and once through Thwaite turn right on Cliff Gate Road for Hawes 6 miles. Pass Buttertubs or stop for a look, hold your breath along here, steep, steep valleys for the passenger to look into and on to Simonstone. Once in Simonstone, down to the junction turn left, then after a few yards, right for Hawes.

We were definitely ready for a ‘cuppa’ by then but plenty of places in Hawes to choose from.

Do come and enjoy this route around the dales and come and stay in one of our beautiful Country Hideaways holiday cottages. Call me, Nadine, or my daughter Joanne, on 01969 663559 for friendly help and advice and to book over the telephone or, of course, do book online if you prefer.

We’re very much looking forward to hearing from you!



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Country Hideaways

Written By Nadine Bell

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